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Via Ferrata recommended route

Mangart (2679 m), The Slovenian route

Via Ferrata · Julian Alps
Responsible for this content
Turizem Dolina Soce Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • View of Mangart from a tunnel on the Mangart road
    View of Mangart from a tunnel on the Mangart road
    Photo: Janko Humar, Turizem Dolina Soce
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A moderately difficult equipped mountain trail to the third highest Slovenian mountain follows a transverse couloir which cuts the entire western face from bottom to top.
moderate
Distance 6.7 km
4:30 h
906 m
906 m
2,679 m
1,900 m

Mangart is a mighty mountain on the border between Slovenia and Italy. It is visible from other mountains in a duo with its neighbouring Jalovec. The access to the route is very easy as the highest Slovenian road leads all the way to Mangartsko sedlo (2079 m).

The original trail to Mangart used to start at Mangartsko sedlo (saddle). But because the trail was cut into two by a state line after world war two, which could not be crossed during the time of the Iron Curtain, each side made their own trails leading to the top. That is one of the reasons why the Slovenian route was created. Mountaineers from Tolmin equipped the over 500 meters high western face on the Slovenian side of the mountain in 1953. However, the Italians made an even more attractive path, following the vertical right edge of the northern face in 1956 as to avoid the Yugoslavian territory. Today Slovenians, Italians, Austrians and people from all over the world meet on either the Slovenian or Italian route leading to the top.

The line of the Slovenian route cannot be missed. It follows an obvious transverse couloir, which splits the western face from bottom to top. The traverse ends on a bigger ledge, a perfect spot to take a little break, then it carries on to the final climbing section up to a subtle ridge which takes you to the cross on the top.

Descend on the classic (Italian) path on the other side of the mountain.

Author’s recommendation

The road to Mangartsko sedlo can give a sense of an undemanding ascent to an unexperienced visitor. All routes to the top of Mangart are difficult and exposed, the weather conditions can rapidly change on such a height so all guidelines of mountain hiking must be respected.
Profile picture of Janko Humar
Author
Janko Humar 
Update: May 16, 2022
Difficulty
moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Mangart, 2,679 m
Lowest point
Parkirišče pod Mangartskim sedlom,, 1,900 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Track types

Asphalt 29.55%Path 55.52%Via ferrata 14.90%
Asphalt
2 km
Path
3.7 km
Via ferrata
1 km
Show elevation profile

Safety information

There is a bad side to a beautifully laid out path and an elegant transverse couloir. Most of it is exposed to falling rocks. It is especially dangerous if there are incautious hikers ahead of you. The route is very well visible from below – if you see a lot of hikers are ascending, it might be better to choose the classic Italian route up to the top. And a helmet is mandatory!

In early summer, there are a few sections of the Italian route that still have snow. An ice axe is obligatory and extra cautiousness is a must.

This is a very demanding hiking trail. Use of the hiking trails is at your own risk.

Tips and hints

Even if Mangartsko sedlo is very easily accessible, it is still a good idea to start the tour early – especially in unstable weather conditions – this way you avoid possible afternoon storms.

Start

The hut at Mangartsko sedlo (1906 m ) (1,915 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.434230, 13.639044
DMS
46°26'03.2"N 13°38'20.6"E
UTM
33T 395445 5143195
w3w 
///constitution.loped.gymnastics
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Destination

Mangart (2679 m)

Turn-by-turn directions

Leave the car before the gate at the end of the Mangart road. You can ascend to the saddle either on the road or take the trail past the mountain hut.

From Mangartsko sedlo head on beneath the rock tower of Mali Rateški Mangart. The path splits above the tower – straight on is the classic Italian route on which you will descend, however, head right across the scree slope to the entrance of the Slovenian route.

Orientation is not a problem, follow the markings and safety equipment along the distinctive couloir (it is well visible from below once you get closer to the face), which ends on the north-western edge of the wall. On the top of the couloir there is a nice grassy viewpoint where you can have a little rest before the final ascent.

Above the couloir you still have to climb up about 100 meters, then the path leads onto a rounded ridge which takes you to the cross on top of the mountain.

Descend on the Italian route on the eastern side, then circumvent on a long traverse above the precipices of the northern wall back to the western side. The descent to the crossroads of the Italian and Slovenian route where you started your ascent is exposed and secured with a steel cable.

Head on across the green medows of the saddle to the hut, then the car.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public transport from Log pod Mangartom to Mangartsko sedlo in July and August is organised twice a day on weekdays, on weekends every full hour from 7 am to 4 pm. The fee is 2 euros per person, it is free for kids under the age of 10. The additional fee for bicycles is 1 euro per bicycle.

Getting there

The 12 km long road to Mangart branches off from the Bovec – Predel regional road by the very obvious viaduct Pri Mlinču (1090 m). The road, built in 1938, is a historical landmark. It is cut into the steep slopes leading to Mangartsko sedlo, formed by 17 switchbacks and 5 tunnels. It comes to an end at the height of 2055 m, making it the highest road in Slovenia. There is an eco fee of 10 euros to drive on the road. Cars, motorcycles and small buses with up to 35 seats are allowed to drive on it.

The road lies within the Triglav National Park. To ensure safety the maximum weight allowed on the road is 90 vehicles. If the maximum is reached, you must wait for someone to return down, or head up by foot. If you are early – 8.30 start at the latest – you definitely have plenty of time.

Parking

Park on the parking lot before the gate on the final kilometre of the Mangart road.

Coordinates

DD
46.434230, 13.639044
DMS
46°26'03.2"N 13°38'20.6"E
UTM
33T 395445 5143195
w3w 
///constitution.loped.gymnastics
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Sidarta: Andrej Mašera, 50 zavarovanih plezalnih poti;  ISBN 961-6027-45-x

Author’s map recommendations

Planinska zveza Slovenije: Jalovec in Mangart, 1 : 25.000

Sidarta: Bovec-Trenta; 1 : 25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

The usual gear for difficult ascents: good quality hiking shoes, walking trousers, three layers of clothing, one being a windbreaker, a backpack, minimal half a litre of fluids per person, sun protection, first aid. Necessary technical gear: helmet, ferrata kit, harness; in early summer an ice axe as well.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
moderate
Distance
6.7 km
Duration
4:30 h
Ascent
906 m
Descent
906 m
Highest point
2,679 m
Lowest point
1,900 m
Circular route Scenic Insider tip Summit route old backup Classic via ferrata

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