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Via Ferrata recommended route

Prisojnik (2547 m), The Jubilee route

Via Ferrata · Julian Alps · closed
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Turizem Dolina Soce Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Start of the Jubilee trail on the south side of Prisojnik
    Start of the Jubilee trail on the south side of Prisojnik
    Photo: Janko Humar, Turizem Dolina Soce
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A magnificent mountain tour through the Eastern Window of Prisojnik takes you from the lush green slopes of the primorska side through the mountain to the top of the dark northern abyss on the Kranjska gora side. Then walk around Zadnji Prisojnik on exposed ledges and finish the ascent on top of Prisojnik.

This route passes through an inaccessible area and is therefore closed. Current information

closed
difficult
Distance 10.2 km
7:30 h
1,492 m
1,492 m
2,547 m
1,341 m

Prisojnik is a mighty mountain full of wonders just above the Vršič pass. In the lower part of the northern wall, a beautifull face of the stone Heathen Maiden (Ajdovska deklica) stares at you. Above, just beneath the ridge, there are two windows that adorn the mountain. On the western side above the Vršič pass you can find the Western Window (Prednje Prisojnikovo okno). On the eastern side, on Zadnji Prisojnik, you can find the Eastern Window. The Western Window is nicely visible from the upper part of the road to Vršič. The Easter is visible from Kranjska gora. There are difficult climbing routes going through both windows.

This tour follows the Jubilee route through the Eastern Window. Because of its great distance from the pass, this route is not very popular. However, it is just as attractive, if not even more, as the more popular Kopiščar route through the Western Window.

Author’s recommendation

Most available guides describe this tour in the opposite direction. That is because they all consider the gorenjska side and the Vršič pass as the obvious starting point. However, my tour starts and ends on the primorska or Trenta side and rounds up the route into a much nicer loop than if the starting point was Vršič.
Profile picture of Janko Humar
Author
Janko Humar 
Update: May 18, 2022
Difficulty
difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Prisojnik, 2,547 m
Lowest point
28. ovinek, 1,341 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Track types

Path 82.96%Road 0.36%Via ferrata 16.36%Traces of trail 0.31%
Path
8.4 km
Road
0 km
Via ferrata
1.7 km
Traces of trail
0 km
Show elevation profile

Safety information

The Jubilee route is not a modern via ferrata, equipped with a steel cable from beginning to end, but rather a traditional equipped mountain trail. Which means there are exposed sections of the route that are not equipped with a cable. Those require extra caution.

There is a chance of falling rocks in the passage through the window – avoid days when the temperature in the mountains is around freezing point.

There are short sections at the access and descent where the trail is poorly visible. Orientation is not difficult but you need to follow the description.

This is a very demanding hiking trail. Use of the hiking trails is at your own risk.

Tips and hints

The tour can also be done in the opposite direction. If you choose Vršič as your starting point, the tour will be at least an hour longer.

Start

Each of the 50 switchbacks on the road to the Vršič pass are marked with their own numbers. Your starting point is switchback number 29 (1341 m) – the first switchback right below the Šupca viewpoint from the Trenta side. (1,358 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.412409, 13.746131
DMS
46°24'44.7"N 13°44'46.1"E
UTM
33T 403634 5140634
w3w 
///ladybird.pyramid.pregnancies
Show on Map

Destination

Kranjska planina (1641) – notch (škrbina) below Zadnji Prisojnik (1995 m) – Eastern Window of Prisojnik (2200 m) – Prisojnik (2547 m) – switchback number 29 (1341 m)

Turn-by-turn directions

Right at switchback number 29 find the trail that takes you to a comfortable mule track along a steep edge. Follow the mule track into the forest, then upwards in a zig-zag manner to the desolate Kranjska planina (pasture).

A spring delights on the lower edge of the pasture, which flows into a trough, chiselled into a larch log. The beaten path ends here. Continue on the lower edge of the pasture upward right, over the hill onto the neighbouring valley and over the plain, still upward right, until you find the marked path which connects Vršič and Mlinarica (about 200 m from the trough). Follow the path in a slight gradient at first to the right over the southern slopes of Prisojnik to the end of the Mlinarica valley.

You will find a crossroads beneath Mali Razor, a mighty tower on the ridge above Mlinarica. To the right, across the face of Razor, the trail continues towards Kriški podi, however, the Jubilee route splits off to the left.

Follow the Jubilee route onwards in a slight gradient beneath the ridge, then upwards to Škrbina (1995) beneath an elegant stone tower. This is where the climbing part begins.

Follow the steel cable onwards along the ridge. The path then turns left to the southern slopes beneath a big overhang. The exposed traverse takes you to an easier but still exposed area. Follow the obvious couloir upwards. The gradient becomes much steeper below the edge of the face. Climb over a vertical, exposed but very well equipped section (the most difficult part of the route) and suddenly you will find yourself on the edge of an enormous and breathtakingly picturesque stone window.

Walk through the window to the northern side. A view of Škrlatica, Kranjska gora and the Austrian peaks in the distance opens up. Continue on beautiful, exposed ledges which gradually circumnavigate Zadnji Prisojnik. Head below the picturesque towers of Zvoniki and once past them, climb up to the notch where the route connects to the trail from Vršič to the top of Prisojnik on the southern slopes. It takes another half hour to the top.

The tour can be continued on the picturesque ridge path past the Western Window of Prisojnik to Vršič. However, if you want to get back to the starting point and your car, you need to descend back to the south side. First to the crossroads with the Jubilee route, then straight down. Under the stone faults, the path starts turning towards Vršič. Under a vertical cleft boulder you will find a crossroads with a path that connects to the Jubilee route on the other side of Zvoniki. Under this crossroads there is an obvious gravel couloir, which goes straight down to Kranjska planina where you started your ascent.

The path through the couloir is poorly visible, however the couloir itself is very obvious. Descend on it straight down until you reach the path which connects Vršič and Mlinarica. On it continue across Kranjska planina and descend on the mule track back down to the starting point at switchback number 29.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

There is no public transport as bus drivers are not allowed to make any stops outside of designated stopping points. If you do not have a vehicle, then you must start and end the tour at the Vršič pass.

Getting there

From Bovec or Kranjska gora towards or over the Vršič pass to switchback number 29.

Parking

There is enough space for two cars to park on the switchback itself. If you need more space, find a parking spot along the road somewhere.

Coordinates

DD
46.412409, 13.746131
DMS
46°24'44.7"N 13°44'46.1"E
UTM
33T 403634 5140634
w3w 
///ladybird.pyramid.pregnancies
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Sidarta: Andrej Mašera, 50 zavarovanih plezalnih poti;  ISBN 961-6027-45-x

Sidarta: Andrej Stritar, Gore nad Sočo;  ISBN 961-6027-28-x

Author’s map recommendations

Sidarta: Bovec-Trenta; 1 : 25.000

Planinska zveza Slovenije: Triglav, 1 : 25.000

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

The usual gear for difficult ascents: good quality hiking shoes, walking trousers, three layers of clothing, one being a windbreaker, a backpack, minimal half a litre of fluids per person, sun protection, first aid. Necessary technical gear: helmet, ferrata kit, harness; in early summer an ice axe as well.

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Photos from others


Status
closed
Difficulty
difficult
Distance
10.2 km
Duration
7:30 h
Ascent
1,492 m
Descent
1,492 m
Highest point
2,547 m
Lowest point
1,341 m
Circular route Scenic Insider tip Summit route old backup Classic via ferrata

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